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Post by Rob on May 4, 2014 23:35:28 GMT
I sharpened a few bench chisels today. I don't have the specific jig but just used the jig for straight ground gouges and presented the edge perpendicular to the sanding belt at a 25 degree bevel angle ie text book chisel/plane iron. It worked a charm. I ground at 60 followed by 180 and stropped it on another machine as I don't have the stropping wheel. I then proceeded to patch a number of lifting veneers on an old table tennis table with oak cut on the bandsaw. Pared them back to flush on both surface and edge with the freshly sharpened chisels and they sliced through the oak like it wasn't there.
Has to be the fastest chisel sharpening I've ever done. Marvellous. |
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Post by Jeff Farris on May 5, 2014 1:26:46 GMT
Rob,
Using the side of the vee-block is the way I would do it. There are two optional square edge jigs. The less expensive one has little to offer compared to the vee-block, except it is shorter, making it less obstructive. The other one is adjustable, allowing you to tweak the register to compensate for any taper in the body of the chisel or other inaccuracies.
Glad to hear your first trip out on something other than turning tools was a successful one.
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Post by Rob on May 5, 2014 14:24:56 GMT
Yeah, I was impressed as in my mind I kind of had the PE pigeon-holed for turning but the versatility of belt versus grinder is dawning on me more every time I use the thing. I also used the side of the vee block since registering against it in that way provides the perfect perpendicular. Very easy, quick, no faff, really liking this system a lot.
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paulm
New Member
Posts: 18 
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Post by paulm on May 5, 2014 18:21:52 GMT
I ran with my old tormek system and new PE in parallel for about six months for mainly woodturning tools but also bench chisels and plane irons and a few kitchen knifes. After realising that I hadn't used the tormek at all during that time as the PE was so flexible and quick and easy for pretty much everything I was doing I sold the tormek on together with those jigs I couldn't make use of. The tormek was a great system in it's day but the PE is my tool of choice these days, especially since I found a local supplier of top quality belts at half or less the cost that I was paying !  Cheers, Paul |
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Post by Rob on May 5, 2014 19:36:25 GMT
I'm a few months behind you Paul but I'm on a similar trajectory I suspect. Since the arrival of the PE the Tormek hasn't had as much use. However, because of my near obsessional loathing of faff, I like the fact that my Tormek is setup for my bowl gouges. I then have that dry grinder I bought off you for my scrapers (with the Tormek toolrest on their BGM-100 thingy. The PE is currently on all shaping jobs and any experimental grinds plus spindle gouges and skew and parting tool duty. Oh and 3/4" roughing gouge now too as that's a doddle. I never liked the Tormek for parting tools or skews. I also have 3 articulated gouge jigs, each with a different setup so I'm good to go on my three most commonly used grinds.
That has all my commonly used traditional turning tools handled...with the PE doing the lions share of the work. What I haven't yet dealt with is cutting tips, hence that other post. I still only have the tear drop scraper that you and I got from that trip to Toolpost but I know as I get more into deep hollowing that collection will start to grow. My turning club has a narrow necked vessel competition coming up so I need something like a swan neck tool to get behind the rim soon.
The other thing I suspect I'll keep the Tormek for is kitchen knives but its already lost the battle for plane irons and chisels as well as turning tools. I do a fair bit of cooking when I'm not making things of wood and decent knives are high on my agenda. For now at least I'm used to the Tormek for that process. I also still use the honing wheel and did so on the chisels I sharpened on the PE just yesterday. De-burred them just fine. But of course no one in their right mind is going to buy a Tormek just for its honing wheel :-)
In a straight contest for the best sharpening geezer in town, the PE is head and shoulders above the Tormek. Faster, repeatable, considerably less expensive and as for shaping....well....don't get me started. Absolutely no contest. PE slaughters it.
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Post by Colorado on Nov 9, 2016 19:33:57 GMT
I purchased a new set of Robert Sorby bench chisels
And the brass ring falls off all of them. What's the fix?
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Post by Robert on Feb 1, 2017 9:06:37 GMT
Hi Colorado
Apologies for not getting back sooner on this one. If you've not managed to sort out the ferrule problems you had with your bench chisels can you please send me a picture. Our production team can sort this out but would like to know what chisels they are.
We make quite a few bench chisels and while some are similar others like the octagonal 167 range have brass ferrules on the bolster at the front of the chisel and at the end of the tool to support gentle hammer usage.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
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Post by Terry Willis on Mar 6, 2017 18:44:48 GMT
I just sent the Sorby company an email from their web site. I then saw this forum and thought I'd give it a quick look when I found the above post about loosing the brass ring. I recently purchased a chisel from Woodcraft at a discount because the brass ring was missing. My chisel is a Sorby Octagonal Handle 1/4" Bevel Edge Chisel (F16706x).
Will Sorby send me a new brass ring (refer to my email for an address). I have several other Sorby chisels with octagonal handles. Should I remove the brass rings from my other chisels and glue them onto the wood handle or does the Sorby company or the above guest have a better idea. Thanks in advance
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Post by Datagriff on Feb 27, 2018 1:48:01 GMT
I purchased a new set of Robert Sorby bench chisels And the brass ring falls off all of them. What's the fix? I too Purchased the Octagonal Handle Bevel Edge Chisels 07F21- 07F27 and on all of them, the brass rings on the strike end of the handle are loose and falling off. So how do you suggest affixing these rings to the handles? Obviously they are not a friction fit after the handles dry a bit. |
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Post by Dave "Zak" on Jan 27, 2021 19:48:55 GMT
I recently purchased 2 sets of the Octagonal Handle bench chisels, and I have one cracked and 2 missing Back Ferrules. I can't find a USA source to have them replaced, so I also sent the Sorby company an email from their website. The questions above from years ago regarding these rings are good questions, but have gone unanswered. If someone from Sorbys is monitoring this forum, I would appreciate a response.
I have a set of Japanese chisels and the ferrules on those are very robust. I assume they serve the purpose of supporting the wood handles while hammering. The Ferrules on my Sorbys are pretty thin and subject to cracking. So is the boxwood strong enough so that the Ferrules are mainly decorative, or should I be concerned about the handles themselves, if a ring is cracked or missing? I want to replace them anyway, because the chisels look so good, but I'm also concerned about using the chisels without them.
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Post by Clive Brooks on Jan 28, 2021 12:49:02 GMT
Hi Dave "Zak" and other forum members
Boxwood is a very old traditional wood used for handles as it is a very robust material and will take a strike from a mallet but the ferrule is also there to protect it if the woodworker is a little over keen with the mallet
The ferrules are friction fitted and then centre punched to secure in place
Unfortunately boxwood has a tendency to move depending on the environment it is in
Our enquiry service has been inundated with emails since the first round of lockdowns back in early 2020 so there is a slight back log that the team are working through, but they will get to your communications and discuss the best way to sort your issue
Please bare with us...Thank you for your loyalty and patience
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Post by Dave "Zak" on Jan 31, 2021 2:04:35 GMT
Clive, thank you for the response. I will look forward to hearing from them.
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Post by JezClayton on Jun 12, 2022 17:34:16 GMT
Hi Dave "Zak" and other forum members Boxwood is a very old traditional wood used for handles as it is a very robust material and will take a strike from a mallet but the ferrule is also there to protect it if the woodworker is a little over keen with the mallet The ferrules are friction fitted and then centre punched to secure in place Unfortunately boxwood has a tendency to move depending on the environment it is in Our enquiry service has been inundated with emails since the first round of lockdowns back in early 2020 so there is a slight back log that the team are working through, but they will get to your communications and discuss the best way to sort your issue Please bare with us...Thank you for your loyalty and patience Was there any answer given to the problem of the brass ferrules coming adrift from the end of the Octagonal Handle Bevel Edge Chisels. The ferrules came away from both my 1" and 3/4" chisels and unfortunately disappeared between floorboards during a recent renovation project. The internal diameter of the ferrules would be approximately 1" when compressed. Originally purchased as part of the 5167 set I would very much like to be able to obtain replacement ferrules (happy to pay) as these much loved chisels still have much life left in them. |
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Post by Pete on Jun 12, 2022 19:50:31 GMT
Hi Jez Ferrules can be found in many places, I make my own handles so buy them often from Ashly Isles. but if you drop an Email to customerservice@robert-sorby.co.uk I am sure someone can help you. Pete |
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Post by Tom Hannah on Jan 19, 2024 0:19:51 GMT
I don't know the name of the decorative brass hardware on the wooden end of Sorby turning gouges (opposite the tool end) -- they are flush round brass caps that appear as large brass thumbtacks in the ends of the handles, perhaps installed for hiding the lathe marks. Would like to find hardware such as that for my home-made turning tool handles.
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