|
|
Post by chipmaker on Sept 21, 2015 9:55:39 GMT
Hi
I purchased the pro edge deluxe last week and love how it sharpens my gouges and scrapers
However when trying to sharpen skew chisels I find that handle of the chisels hit the lower bar which is for the jig.
Does the bar screw out?
I had to resort to removing the handles from the skew, which cannot be right?
|
|
mcb
New Member
Posts: 47 
|
Post by mcb on Sept 21, 2015 22:18:23 GMT
Hi I purchased the pro edge deluxe last week and love how it sharpens my gouges and scrapers However when trying to sharpen skew chisels I find that handle of the chisels hit the lower bar which is for the jig. Does the bar screw out? I had to resort to removing the handles from the skew, which cannot be right? I don't have that problem. Are you sure you have the table set at the correct angle? MC |
|
|
|
Post by chipmaker on Sept 21, 2015 22:59:42 GMT
I'm sure angle is correct. Will double check
May be my handles are too fat, will turn them down a bit
|
|
|
|
Post by chipmaker on Sept 22, 2015 10:45:33 GMT
Just checked. Angle setting is correct
|
|
|
|
Post by Rob on Sept 22, 2015 14:20:06 GMT
It can be a problem. I alleviate it in two ways. Firstly experiment with the setting of the entire belt assemnly position. There are two allen screws you undo to move the belt assembly through 90 degrees so you can position it at a comfortable angle depending on the operation you're doing. For example, gouges using the boss, I have mine set quite upright, similarly when I'm sharpening carbide scraper bits in 90 degree mode because the platen is flat then. But for the skew I come way down the other end as the 15 degree rake needs the platen to be flatter by lowering the belt assembly. As you move the belt assembly, it more or less fouls on the motor housing as you describe so that's number one tip.
Number two, if it continues to foul (as mine does) then I raise the platen by placing a block of wood (about 1/2" thick) on it into which I've carefully fixed a hardwood runner which sits in the groove, rather like a cross cut sled in the mitre slots of a tablesaw. This lifts the handle of the skew and prevents it fouling on either the motor housing or the edge of the belt. The downward pressure from your hands keeps the hardwood mod from coming loose, the runner prevents it pushing into the belt.
It is a design flaw in the tool in my opinion and perhaps one day they will release a version 2 that irons out the wrinkle.
|
|
|
|
Post by Rob on Sept 22, 2015 14:24:25 GMT
One tip I forgot to mention that Jeff put me onto when I first got mine. Of the two allen screws that govern the adjustment of the belt assembly, the rear one which is difficult to access, leave it just passed finger tight. Then you only need to loosen/tighten the front one with an allen key each time you come to move the belt. Much quicker. I also leave the belt guard mechanism off permanently to avoid the faff of having to continually mess with that too. That's a personal risk I'm prepared to take though, I'm not recommending you do that if you don't feel comfortable.
|
|
|
|
Post by chipmaker on Sept 23, 2015 5:33:21 GMT
It can be a problem. I alleviate it in two ways. Firstly experiment with the setting of the entire belt assemnly position. There are two allen screws you undo to move the belt assembly through 90 degrees so you can position it at a comfortable angle depending on the operation you're doing. For example, gouges using the boss, I have mine set quite upright, similarly when I'm sharpening carbide scraper bits in 90 degree mode because the platen is flat then. But for the skew I come way down the other end as the 15 degree rake needs the platen to be flatter by lowering the belt assembly. As you move the belt assembly, it more or less fouls on the motor housing as you describe so that's number one tip. Number two, if it continues to foul (as mine does) then I raise the platen by placing a block of wood (about 1/2" thick) on it into which I've carefully fixed a hardwood runner which sits in the groove, rather like a cross cut sled in the mitre slots of a tablesaw. This lifts the handle of the skew and prevents it fouling on either the motor housing or the edge of the belt. The downward pressure from your hands keeps the hardwood mod from coming loose, the runner prevents it pushing into the belt. It is a design flaw in the tool in my opinion and perhaps one day they will release a version 2 that irons out the wrinkle. What a great idea, thanks. But such a shame that at the price that I paid, (not cheap) that this device has such a fundamental flaw. raising the platen as you suggest will also make the skew jig a bit useless, but I am sure I can sharpen without the jig.
Great plan. Thank you
|
|
|
|
Post by Rob on Sept 23, 2015 6:07:09 GMT
If it helps, my experience is that there are always little foibles and annoyances in every machine I have in my workshop and one learns to workaround, jig them or fix them in some way. I guess what's disappointing with this is you've only just bought it. But I've come to expect to "fettle" everything related to wood working even to the extent of a brand new Lie Neilsen plane!!
After about 5 years of being disappointed with everything, I kind of just sighed, shrugged shoulders and now just get on and fix the thing, whatever it is if it can be done.
You are right about one thing by of a silver lining which is that you don't need the triangular piece to sharpen the skew. In fact, to be perfectly honest, my personal preference is to slightly radius (convex) the skew such that you've essentially nicked off the corners. This really helps to reduce catches on beads and planing cuts as the corners are just tucked out of the way enough to stay out of trouble longer.
So I guess what I'm advocating is a slight mental acrobatic in that you should slightly steel yourself every time you buy new kit that some part of it wont live up to expectation...come away from the perfection frame and expect to have to fettle it in some way. I now view it as an opportunity to get to know the components intimately :-)
|
|
