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Post by Rob on May 4, 2014 8:10:21 GMT
Having owned the machine for about a month now, my first job was to sharpen 3 different skews, one of which used to belong to my Dad and is an absolute monster, a good 11/2". I wasn't looking forward to grinding that sucker on the Tormek I can tell you!
It was horribly out of true in all ways. The PE got the thumbs up very quickly for me when the 60 grit ceramic belt absolutely ate that thing.
It seemed intuitive to me to lower the arm position so its at about 30 degrees off my bench top. Had it been in the upright position it would be much more difficult to control the holding of the skew as gravity would be against me.
I've not changed the position of the arm since then and yet sharpened all manner of things. The issue of bumping into the switch gear has been dealt with in another thread. So my question is: Is there an optimum set of preferences for arm position for grinding different tools and is that written down any where? |
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Post by Graham on May 4, 2014 8:51:35 GMT
I look forward to Jeffs answer but I suspect it is more dependant on things like the users height, bench height, and the angle to be worked. I find the arm needs to be in a different place for (say) a 15 degree bevel than it does for a 50 degree bevel.
On another note..... Sorby do a gizmo for attaching to the bench to set the length of protrusion on the fingernail jig. The distance being dependant on the bevel angle again.
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Post by Rob on May 4, 2014 9:05:55 GMT
I'm sure you're right Graham. I was wondering if there is some kind of "rough guide" to generalised ideal arm positions but accept its unlikely and that me not being a lazy git is probably the correct answer ie experiment til you find what works for you.
I have one of those protrusion setting gizmo's from my Tormek which is quite handy. But for my bowl gouges, because I use the 65mm setting all the time I've actually fixed a stop exactly 65mm from the end of my sharpening station so I just ram the gouge in the jig then ram the jig against the table and the tip of the gouge against the stop and tighten the lock knob. A vain running through all my setups is speed. I truly hate faffing around when my head is still on the lathe. I want to get back to the lathe as fast as I possibly can with a sharp edge so I short cut everything I can in the environment surrounding the lathe.
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Post by Jeff Farris on May 4, 2014 14:57:41 GMT
Nothing official, but here's my personal observations from over a year of using the ProEdge and teaching others to use it.
When I'm sharpening skews, I lay the arm all the way down. Then it's almost like working on a bench stone.
When I'm sharpening gouges, either fingernail or straight grind, I like the arm down a bit from vertical, probably somewhere in the 55-60 degree area.
When I'm sharpening scrapers I want the arm vertical, or nearly so.
As mentioned in the other thread, tweak the back bolt until it provides some drag, but still allows movement of the arm when the front bolt is loose. Then you can make your adjustments quickly, loosening and tightening the front bolt only.
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Post by Rob on May 4, 2014 17:52:13 GMT
done it already Jeff :-) Have the back one snug but not tight. Works a treat. Already liking this forum :-)
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Post by Dean Listiak on May 13, 2014 22:56:02 GMT
Any Suggestions on how to sharpen an oval shaped skew. I bought my PE to put a flat edge on skews, but have difficulty with the ovals.
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paulm
New Member
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Post by paulm on May 14, 2014 7:58:48 GMT
I don't use an oval skew but do use round ones and so have a similar problem. I just take care to line up the ground face as best I can with the abrasive and press reasonably firmly close to the tip to seat the existing bevel on the abrasive without creating new facets accidentally each time. Doesn't always work though !
Cheers, Paul
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Post by Rob on May 14, 2014 13:18:51 GMT
would blobbing a big lump of either platicene or blue tak on the rest next to the skew jig help to nest the tool in a more fixed position?
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Post by Jeff Farris on May 14, 2014 13:32:44 GMT
Rob's suggestion might work, but I've found just concentrating downward pressure in the center of the oval is sufficient.
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dean
New Member
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Post by dean on May 14, 2014 16:17:56 GMT
Thanks for your suggestions. I will work on a jig since I am not good at sharpening. That's why I have a Tormek, a ProEdge, many other grinders and sharpening stones.
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bill
New Member
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Post by bill on May 15, 2014 23:45:50 GMT
I have trouble sharpening the oval skew I cant seem to get it right on the pro edge or the Tormeck. I end up back on the bench grinder.
The only issue I really have with the pro edge is the tool rest is so wide my smaller tool handles sit on the rest even with the v block. I purchased the Sorby short square skew and I cant sharpen it. Is there an adapter I don't Know about ?
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Post by Jeff Farris on May 16, 2014 14:34:24 GMT
Bill,
There's a table that is half the depth of the standard table. It's great for short skews and butt chisels.
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