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Post by Rob on Jun 22, 2014 9:34:45 GMT
I can't see any way of jigging it so the flat would be against the belt safely. I could imagine holding it at right angles to the belt and away from the jig platform altogether and just give the tip a tickle freehanding. But is there any official recommended approach? Even if you set the platform at right angles to the belt and held the chisel on its side would the side bevel not get caught in the gap between the platform and moving belt?
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Post by Jeff Farris on Jun 23, 2014 23:58:38 GMT
IF I had a tool with a badly out of flat back, I might start it on the ProEdge. The two things I would want for the job would be a foot switch and the elevated platen that comes with the knife jig. With the elevated platen, you could lay on the platen at a skewed angle, coming in from either side. But, I would want the tool in place before the abrasive started running (hence my desire for a foot switch).
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Post by Rob on Jun 24, 2014 8:40:56 GMT
Right. I see where you're going with that Jeff. By attempting to place the tool on the moving belt you would risk a bad ding or worse an accident I guess. I suppose you could come in skewed as you suggest and angle the chisel so the handle end "hit first". Then although it would slightly ding the back it would be so far from the edge that it wouldn't matter? I guess that doesn't address the risk of the moving belt scenario
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Post by Pete on Jun 24, 2014 18:48:02 GMT
The first thing that springs to mind is Rob! what the hell have you done to this chisel!
I presume the problem is concave to the centre (English  ) line, so it's just taking a small amount from the outside edges to return to flat, I would normally approach this with a course then fine oil-stone, If you have managed to get it sufficiently out of true to require mechanical aid then a standard belt sander would do it from the end (the end roller would be up by the handle so probably not of any significance).
Word of caution if you are tempted to use your wood belt sander here then make sure you clean it first, sparks and sawdust don't mix!
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Post by Rob on Jun 25, 2014 7:04:44 GMT
Interesting advice there Pete. Thanks for that. No these chisels are not ones I've dinged myself to that degree :-) They're from a tool roll of a chippy mate of mine who emigrated to the States 15 years ago. I've just come across his old site tool roll and in it was a history lesson and a lot of rust! Mostly bits from the brace and bit days plus some seriously rusty (and dinged) chisels. Goodness only knows what some of the chisels were used for, certainly at a minimum I would say prizing nails out of wood and masonry. They're not great quality ones but this guy was my best man so I figured I might just take the time to restore them for when he next visits. I wanted to machine them before going anywhere near an oil stone as they're pretty beat up.
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Post by Pete on Jun 25, 2014 9:15:15 GMT
Hi Rob
Yes in that case a standard belt sander is your way forward (the PE has the casing covering the end you need), the sawdust warning is genuine, not me but a member of the local club had the problem with a dust fire inside the casing luckily he had a CO2 extinguisher handy, as it's probably ineffective and slightly dangerous to dump water over the machine...
1st use the PE to square off the ends, this will get any chips out but more importantly will give you a nice shiny edge to aim at a flat back from.
If you don't have a bench top belt sander then a hand held one held upside down in a clamp or two will suffice, position it so that the belt is running away from you, touch lightly just in front of the handle on the end roller and then tip it down to flat on the belt, and start working it. If the flat is concave i.e. centre lower than edges there is probably no hope of getting a decent tool back from it as you will be working on a rocking platform, but if it's just the edges it should be stable enough to machine back into a good shape.
I would aim at getting the back finished on an oil stone before going back to the PE and re-profiling the bevel.
for the Brace and bits if you are going for looks rather then function then get some Jenolite wire brush off the loose rust, paint on the Jenolite and it will stabilise the rust into a black coating on the bit, drill a few holes into the lawn to polish them up again and oil them up before storing, seriously... have you ever seen plough shears after then have been dragged through soil it's quite abrasive will give you blunt but good looking tools that you wouldn't want to use these days anyway.
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mcb
New Member
Posts: 47 
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Post by mcb on Jul 1, 2014 8:16:57 GMT
I've just come across his old site tool roll and in it was a history lesson and a lot of rust! Mostly bits from the brace and bit days plus some seriously rusty (and dinged) chisels. I recommend RESTORE from Shield Technology I've used it to clear rust from some very badly rusted tools and it has worked wonders. Amazingly, it's got into seized threads and freed the nut! Well worth trying MC |
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Post by jimcarroll on Jul 1, 2014 8:42:36 GMT
The easiest way to flatten the back of chisels is to glue some 240g wet and dry to a peice of 6mm glass.
No worries about stuffing up the chisel. once flat then sharpen on the pro edge.
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Post by richardd on Jan 27, 2016 16:18:48 GMT
IF I had a tool with a badly out of flat back, I might start it on the ProEdge. The two things I would want for the job would be a foot switch and the elevated platen that comes with the knife jig. With the elevated platen, you could lay on the platen at a skewed angle, coming in from either side. But, I would want the tool in place before the abrasive started running (hence my desire for a foot switch). Jeff - Good safety tips for flattening blades use on the ProEdge. How about adding a foot switch to the PE accessories? I many chisels and plane blades that need flattening and although using a belt sander would be safe with their slow variable speed, and having the belt moving away from you, the platen plates are usually made from thin bent metal are not flat or accurate enough. I would finally finish flattening blades on an ultra fine water stone, or 3M PSA films on float glass. On the ProEdge, is it possible to slow or vary the motor, and belt speed, or reverse the motor and belt direction, using some electronic device, and develop its potential into a linishing machine, taking it beyond its already intended capable sharpening abilities. Not only would this be a Tormek killer, but the sales would double or quadruple as there would be no other machine on the market with such capability. |
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Post by Rob on Feb 9, 2016 10:46:20 GMT
wow....I could have done with you in my sales team in the bad old days.....quadruple revenue you say....with one mod.......bring it on! I might have gagged you around budget time mind :-)
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) line, so it's just taking a small amount from the outside edges to return to flat, I would normally approach this with a course then fine oil-stone, If you have managed to get it sufficiently out of true to require mechanical aid then a standard belt sander would do it from the end (the end roller would be up by the handle so probably not of any significance). 