gus
New Member
Posts: 16
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Post by gus on Dec 8, 2018 6:22:16 GMT
I made a turnout to flatten backs. I use the tool I am about to flatten to align the guide onto the plane of the belt & tighten the thumb screws. I put a slight set on the angle support piece for a little preload to make adjustment easier. The slots allow the knife back or the ordinary back to be used. The guide gives an edge to roll off so the whole back hits the belt at the same time. Works well. Robert, I'm thinking you should make and sell them to people without a mill.   Cya Gus |
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Post by Pete on Dec 8, 2018 21:54:14 GMT
Gus, Hopefully Clive will be in touch soon and get you in touch with Sorby R&D (Clive works for Robert Sorby) you have some good ideas going on here.
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Post by Clive Brooks on Dec 11, 2018 10:22:29 GMT
Good morning Gus
Thank you for showing your idea to the forum
I am currently on holiday but please send an email to sales@robert-sorby.co.uk showing some images of your idea and it in use and a description and I will speak to our production team about it.
Thank you
Clive
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Post by francis on Dec 12, 2018 10:53:17 GMT
Gus
could you post some pictures of this in use - would love to see how it works
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Post by Pete on Dec 12, 2018 11:19:11 GMT
Gus could you post some pictures of this in use - would love to see how it works From the look of it the chisel / plane blade or whatever you want flattened goes sideways across the belt, you just need to ensure the rest is level with the belt. simple and elegant |
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gus
New Member
Posts: 16
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Post by gus on Dec 12, 2018 18:33:49 GMT
Francis, what Pete said. He's all over it.
I'll get some photos of my back flattener gaget up shortly. Clive also asked for some more info.
My back flattener does involve using the proedge without the side gaurd.
Clive might be having to take a company stand regarding that, but if that is a concirn there is a much more effective way of protecting against such a nip point. However amongst all the Proedge things to modify and make these are a fair way down my list. (After saying that I'll look like a real dickhead with a finger wound off.)
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gus
New Member
Posts: 16
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Post by gus on Dec 29, 2018 10:24:16 GMT
I took my PE to various christmas events and sharpened whatever people bought along (I gave a heads up). Anyway I was having trouble with axes and scalloped bread knives that people asked me to sharpen; untill it dawned on me that the jig I made for back flattening would work.
Easy to make and use. Have a go although I think there is a need for a slight manual bias to the lower edge of a chisel being flattened.
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Post by Pete on Dec 29, 2018 11:39:29 GMT
It looks very possible to combine the backplate of this with the original guard, so pinch points shouldn't really be an issue, and also from a manufacturing point of view if it was combined with the main structure of the guard, then there is only 1 extra component key usage area is between the mounting bolts so stiffness shouldn't be a factor.
I am however wondering why you didn't make the top plate the adjustable one with the backplate level with the table rather than the belt? this would also enable the top edge to have a small 12mm or so table to take the downward finger pressure. 25 to 30mm would make it much more controllable for heavy items like axe heads.
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gus
New Member
Posts: 16
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Post by gus on Jan 5, 2019 22:26:54 GMT
Pete,
The referance edge of the jig for back flattening needs to be on the cutting plane ie the belt surface.
The work table doesn't come into it. The 1st peice of steel onto the bolts is the slotted peice and the 2nd peice prevents the 1st from walking off plane as the nuts are tightened. The 2nd peice has a slight curve to provide preload while I bring the 1st peice onto plane with the cutting surface. The return on the 2nd peice can act as a rest or be turned the other way.
Your idea of incorporating the existing gaurd with the back flattening jig has a lot of merit.
WRT pinch point protection gaurding:-In my experience this is best provided with an angle in the nip point between the belt and pulley. I have used this approach on several industrial machines.
I doubt many PEs in the wild are still consistently wearing all their supplied gaurding, but there would be no advantage in removing the nip point angles.
I have no intention of fabricating nip point angles for my machine but am very aware that a finger entering the pinch point will be ripped and screwed off in about 0.02 of a second. With the spring travel a finger would be unlikely to stall the machine.
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