JoeW
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by JoeW on May 14, 2014 14:02:41 GMT
Is it possible to sort the message order so that the newest is on top/comes first? I cannot figure it out. Thanks, Joe
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Post by Jeff Farris on May 14, 2014 15:04:34 GMT
I don't think you can change the sort order, however, if you click on the "new" button in the message list, you'll go straight to the newest message in the thread without scrolling.
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peter
New Member
Posts: 4
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Post by peter on May 16, 2014 11:08:40 GMT
How do I ask questions
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Post by Pete on May 16, 2014 11:42:34 GMT
I don't know if there are any specific rules, but pick a relevant section and post your question see what happens
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Post by Jeff Farris on May 16, 2014 14:49:56 GMT
Pete, you've given me an opening to talk about "specific rules". At this point there aren't any, and we would like to keep it that way. If we all keep the Golden Rule in mind, we won't need any others. As general guidelines, don't ask me or any of the other factory administrators to do direct comparisons between our tools and those of our competitors. Posts where the only purpose is to blatantly promote tools other than Robert Sorby will most likely be deleted.
We've launched this forum to create a community where our customers can get answers straight from the factory and share experiences and ideas with other customers. As long as that is what's going on, there won't be much in the way of "specific rules".
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Post by Pete on May 16, 2014 15:07:26 GMT
Jim, That's always the best way, so long as the members keep common courtesy to each other and our hosts there shouldn't be any need for rules, nothing wrong with a rule but in my experience as soon as you make one simple rule then you have to start a library for the exceptions.
Where I have input to add I will add it, but it would possibly be helpful if factory members could be identified so that their answers would stand out from general experience answers that I or others may give.
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Post by Jeff Farris on May 16, 2014 15:28:42 GMT
... but it would possibly be helpful if factory members could be identified so that their answers would stand out from general experience answers that I or others may give. We're the ones with "Robert Sorby, Ltd." in our signature line.
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Post by Rob on May 24, 2014 8:44:01 GMT
and lets not forget the dirty great line of stars :-)
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Post by Pete on May 24, 2014 11:40:07 GMT
and lets not forget the dirty great line of stars :-) I figured Jeff had the stars for being the administrator, but other factory people may not be so illuminated The signature line is a great clue though all we need now is some questions... In the workshop today making acorn pots, been given a piece of silver birch about 8' long and 5" diameter, unknown age cuts OK but a bit too plain for vases, and stability is suspect so don't want to put the time for hollow forms or anything else complex. also don't especially want to store it, so acorn pots it is with a wide lip and loose fitting lid to allow it to warp after cutting. any other ideas on how to use this piece of wood before it's all turned would be welcomed... I have a craft fair stall coming up so cheap (i.e. free timber short production time) items are desirable. I have a home made shear scraper that takes the Turnmaster blades, only used it for internal finishing cuts before, but seeing the turnmaster discussion here I will be giving it a bit more of a go which may lead me to spending more on more Sorby kit if it works out, mine is a piece of square bar ground to 45 degrees then drilled and tapped at the sharp end, so not as flexible as the turnmaster, but I do use the Sorby tips with it.
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Post by Rob on May 24, 2014 23:50:52 GMT
apples and/or pears are always good to use up smaller stock Pete.
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Post by Pete on May 25, 2014 12:12:38 GMT
apples and/or pears are always good to use up smaller stock Pete. Yes fruit is strangely popular, I really don't understand why! though this wood is a bit to white for good fruit blanks, I prefer darker wood for that, also with fruit being a solid mass it really needs a known quantity tendency to split is quite high for branches or anything that may move after the mass is changed. This entire log has been processed into acorn pots with nice loose but heavy lids so it can move about a bit and still function to the design, will leave them in the nice hot humid kitchen and sell any that don't split in half :-) It really interests me how wood changes colour during seasoning, I had some fresh walnut from a garden environment that was almost pure white on arrival, took 3 years to go dark but I cut pens from offcuts at stages during that process and each has stayed the colour it was when I cut & sealed it.
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Post by Rob on May 25, 2014 18:44:43 GMT
woods capacity to change colour is absolutely incredible. I've got some oak from a tree that was downed in the 1987 hurricane and has been dead (and drying) for nearly 30 years. Its a near coffee, caramel brown. Absolutely lovely. Someone suggested it may be due to a fungal attack that has penetrated the entire trunk.
Also I acquired some cherry last summer and it was very pale. A year on and its that lovely deep/orangey brown in the heartwood. My Ash looks dull and white until you expose the olive heartwood. On polishing its almost as dark as walnut. The varying properties of wood are a constant source of fascination for me.
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