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Post by andeep on May 14, 2014 11:43:47 GMT
Thought you guys & gals might like to see how I have mounted by PE. It is mounted on a baseboard which is held down by a couple of bench hold downs. I use the same method for bench drill, morticer, engineering vice, grinder etc. In order to leave room for dust extraction I fix the board to the RH end of the bench. The tipping point is way o the left so no chance of it falling off. As I do not have a 3m run of extraction hose yet I am a bit wary of hot sparks and sawdust but the facility is there should I need it. Rob's (woodblokes) idea of a trap seems a goodun so may be incorporated soon.   cheers Andy |
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Post by Jeff Farris on May 14, 2014 13:34:43 GMT
Good looking set up, Andy. But make sure you have a proper trap before using that extractor.
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Post by Graham on May 14, 2014 16:18:43 GMT
I have mine fastened to a wheeled cabinet which I will one day build drawers for. There is a backboard which has all the belts mounted on it.
Cannot really see the need for extraction.
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Post by jimcarroll on May 21, 2014 12:09:05 GMT
Another option is to place a large magnet in the same position as the dust extraction and catch all the waste material there
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Post by Rob on May 23, 2014 7:46:09 GMT
Is extraction really necessary with a pro-edge?
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Post by jimcarroll on May 23, 2014 8:22:07 GMT
Not really that is why I use the magnet.
There can be a lot of waste material build up under the belt.
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Post by titian on Nov 1, 2014 18:57:14 GMT
Just stumbled across this forum, good work again Jeff!
Would a Microclene type dust filter appropriately placed be sufficient to extract any nasty particles? Perhaps in conjunction with a strong magnet, trying to avoid running the noisy 2000 watt extractor plus the expense of purchasing a spark trap.
Thanks all.
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Post by mcblack on Nov 3, 2014 1:10:30 GMT
Another option is to place a large magnet in the same position as the dust extraction and catch all the waste material there I suggest that the magnet should be in a heavy duty plastic bag (or similar) otherwise it will be impossible to remove the filings from the magnet. A good source of magnets, by the way, is dead loudspeakers; it's a very easy job to dismantle the speaker and remove the magnet. I found a tap with club hammer on the end of a wide cold chisel did the trick. MCB |
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mcb
New Member
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Post by mcb on Oct 17, 2019 11:02:39 GMT
The photographs seem, to me, to be badly focussed.
I use a couple of G-clamps to hold the metal base plate to my bench without any problems.
MC Black
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Post by Pete on Oct 23, 2019 18:00:29 GMT
Hi Mcb
The pictures are on another website, hence the blurring, I can get the first one to load from photobucket but not the others.
I think so long as the ProEdge is held it doesn't care how. I have just finished a workshop furniture refresh which includes a drawer unit to screw my ProEdge down on. Which is in turn on castors so I can park it in the corner or turn it to 45° in the corner to give me better access as I need it.
In fact almost everything is on castors so I can re-configure my workshop easily depending on what I am making.No more picking up bench top machines to carry them to the open space, I just roll them in.
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mcb
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Post by mcb on Oct 23, 2019 18:26:23 GMT
Hi Mcb The pictures are on another website, hence the blurring, I can get the first one to load from photobucket but not the others. I think so long as the ProEdge is held it doesn't care how. I have just finished a workshop furniture refresh which includes a drawer unit to screw my ProEdge down on. Which is in turn on castors so I can park it in the corner or turn it to 45° in the corner to give me better access as I need it. In fact almost everything is on castors so I can re-configure my workshop easily depending on what I am making.No more picking up bench top machines to carry them to the open space, I just roll them in. When I clicked the second photograph it opened but the ">" sign by the first photograph didn't go to the second photograph. My workshop isn't sufficiently large to move any furniture about but adjacent surfaces are level. I built my bench from 4x2 timber offcuts from somebody who was having a house extension. To the builder, a length of 4x2 six feet long was scrap! The bench top is an old school desk (formica) with lengths of 6x2 and 4x2 timber screwed to the top to create a Tool Well. I put another offcut of 6x2 in the well to make a level surface when I lift my Drill Press or Pro-Edge or Metal tuning lathe (Taig/Peatol) on to the bench. When I built it, I put a shelf on the stretchers but I have now added a second shelf and two vices. |
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Post by Pete on Oct 24, 2019 0:12:29 GMT
I built my workshop 10 years ago, it is the classic Swedish small steve design (like the barns in old western movies) with 2 floor and what I thought was plenty of space, I have since learned that whatever you build is exactly 1 third the size you need!
I spent a lot of time last year turning out small items that sold well and made some money, which I am spending on a refit of the workshop. Starting with a 5"ducting based extraction system. All drawer based, as the old kitchen cupboard setup I had just kept losing stuff! (so far I have made 28 drawers) on cabinets that are the right height for the various tools so Drill Press, ProEdge, Thicknesser, Router Table, Scroll Saw all have a cabinet to stand on that is on wheels so I can move it from the wall to the middle of the workshop so I have room to put timber through them. I have this week bought 6 50mm planks of Beech, which I am turning into a rather excellent workbench. It will have 6" x 4" legs a very large vice and If I can lift it away from the wall (which I am a tad concerned about!) the back apron will double as an extension piece that will make it a reasonable size assembly table. Far more than I need for the bits of cabinet making I actually do, but I want it!
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Post by Pete on Nov 4, 2019 23:45:51 GMT
The Beech planks re-configured! Had to take a photo while the oil was wet, because it's probably the last time the bench will be completely clear!  |
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