Francis is right, photos add to your posts, this board is a bit quirky, I didn't start the forum just took over the moderator job when Jeff moved on. If you ignore the quick reply box above 8t on the right there is a REPLY button, click that and you get the full reply editor.
Top right of the full editor is ADD ATTACHMENT that will allow you to add photos.
Ask any ten woodturners for an opinion on how x is achieved, you can expect at least eleven different answers.
The Sorby Proedge knife jigs work very well but when using the jaws for smaller knives to hold .... smaller knives, there is a slight issue. Because the projection of the blade from the jaws is quite small at the curved end of the blade, after the knife back is rested agin' the two locating grub screws, attempting to put shallow bevels on to the edge means the jig jaws hit the sanding belt before the curved section of the knife edge can reach it.
The result is a slight sanding of the corner of the jig jaw at the end holding the curved end of the knife blade. In one case, it got a bit of grub screw an' all! And that section of the knife edge is not sharpened, of course.
No serious damage; and if the honing angle is increased by raising the round gubbins that rests on the knife honing jig bar, all is well. The curved section of the knife edge then reaches the sanding belt before the jig jaw does. It just means that small knives have to have less pointy bevels. As they still seem sharp enough for even Sweeney Todd (whether he's shaving folk or making pies out of them) I cannot complain.
I wanted a jig to sharpen skew chisels, of various angles. But most of the frequent users are 45 degree paring chisels so rather than make a complicated variable-angle jig, I used two bits of scrap and three teeny brass screws to make a 4 sided 45 degree skew chisel jig. The scrap bits are from other scrap bits used to make boxes, which came from making a couple of pieces of larger furniture. Waste not want not!
The platform is 6mm thick black walnut. The bar is 2.75mm thick sapele (the slot in the angle plate of the Proedge is 3mm deep). The brass screws were countersunk and both the heads and the poking-through tails were filed flat to the wood they're screwed through. It took 25 minutes to make, much of which involved getting the angles dead-on and the bar to go in the slot tight but still easily moved (i.e. no slop).
It works very well. I'll eventually make one for 15 degree skew plane blades and another for 30 degree carving skews, although the latter only need sharpening once in a blue moon as I use them little.