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Post by bda019 on Apr 24, 2020 19:40:43 GMT
Hi , I have 2 fingernail jigs and I wanted to colour code each jig for a different setting on different chisels the 2 jigs I own have a adjustable collar on them , I have bought 4 new jigs and it’s a new design and the adjustable collar is missing ,was just wondering why the design change
thanks
Brian
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Post by Pete on Apr 24, 2020 23:58:50 GMT
Mine doesn't have the adjustable collar, but I have the 3 position swivel, add 5° for each hole, set it on the ProSet for 45° length on hole 1 it is 45°, hole 2 it is 50° hole 3 it is 55°.
Apart from playing with the 40/40 grind which I am quite enjoying I am mostly lazy and use 55° for bowl gouges and 45° for spindle so there is no adjustment needed just set them on the ProSet to 45° and use hole 1 for spindle and hole 3 for bowl...
However I don't know why the change, and think I may be missing something from your post... so I will ask Clive to jump come in on this question.
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Post by philcylce on Apr 26, 2020 16:15:10 GMT
I think the design has changed because the gouge profile can be achieved by changing the protrusion and/or the knuckle angle. It is also probably cheaper to manufacture without the collar.
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Post by Clive Brooks on Apr 27, 2020 7:46:26 GMT
Good morning bda019, Pete and philcylce...The reason for the design change was due to the huge amount of customers that altered the factory setting when experimenting when they first got the jig but wanted to get back to the factory setting once they were fed up of getting various grinds they didn't want
Because of this if was decided that it would be less confusing for customers if the adjustable collar wasn't there so the fixed shoulder was incorporated into the new modern design
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mikec
New Member
Proedge and Sovereign user
Posts: 2
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Post by mikec on May 2, 2020 22:39:55 GMT
There also appears to be another design change, My fingernail profiler has a screw and a brass disc to clamp the gouge, I have to remove the brass disc to get the larger of my bowl gouges to fit which is annoying, later ones seem to be different
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Post by Pete on May 2, 2020 23:19:09 GMT
Mike
Got me thinking now, I guess there have been many mods to the jigs over the years, I just take mine for granted, but when I go to the workshop tomorrow I will take a look as I have no idea if mine has a brass disk or not? I don't think it does but I can't visualise it.
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Post by francis on May 4, 2020 8:01:21 GMT
This is my jig attached Attachments:
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Post by Pete on May 4, 2020 16:40:15 GMT
This is my jig, slightly different to your Francis, though obviously functionally the same.  |
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Post by francis on May 4, 2020 17:10:57 GMT
Yours is nicer the brass button on mine held on by a rubber o ring into which the screw goes button can fall off into wood shavings Sometimes and take a while to find  |
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Post by Pete on May 4, 2020 19:31:58 GMT
I feel bad calling Clive in for this as they are running on reduced staff, so he is covering several jobs, but when the world gets back to normal would be interesting to know how many versions they have gone through.
As for losing things in shavings my worst was the cutter from my hollowing tool! seriously about an inch long and quarter inch square, obviously it bounced off the lathe bed so I had no idea where it was! I went over those shavings with a magnet, nothing! Had to sit on the floor and pick them up a few at a time and bag them floor was almost clear when I eventually found it, obviously not in the shavings but bounced under the drill stand!
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mikec
New Member
Proedge and Sovereign user
Posts: 2
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Post by mikec on May 4, 2020 19:40:45 GMT
This is my jig, slightly different to your Francis, though obviously functionally the same. Pete My one is the same as Francis I think that yours may be a more recent version, can you get a 5/8 bowl gouge in without taking parts off ? As I said before I have to take the disc off for the 5/8 gouge bu you need it for the smaller gouges. |
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Post by Pete on May 4, 2020 19:52:05 GMT
Mike no problem getting the 5/8th bowl gouge in mine, the bar lifts high enough for it.
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Post by francis on May 5, 2020 7:42:30 GMT
The only challenge I have (which might be solved with the new design) is when the gouge gets short and you are trying to use my clamp on the top of the flute/round bar - its a bit of a menace - I insert a little metal tab in between the brass button and the bar to try and get a better grip in regards to size mine works fine on a 16mm diameter bar (see my post here robert-sorby.freeforums.net/post/1470/thread) for all my settings |
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Post by Pete on May 5, 2020 9:27:38 GMT
I solve the short tool issue in two ways, first I grind a flat on the bar behind the flute, being careful to get it directly in line with the flute which allows the jig to carry on working, plus when the flute is running out that is time to buy a new tool and switch to hand sharpening the worn out one, it is good practice in case you ever find yourself somewhere your jigs are not available, as well as an opportunity to experiment with all the weird and wacky alternative sharpening ideas floating around various woodturning forums.
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Post by billstan01 on May 10, 2020 0:21:59 GMT
When reprofiling a bowl gouge, Sorby recommend creating a half moon by grinding the gouge upside down, at 45 deg for a standard grind (hole 1 on jig), then using that half moon as a guide for reprofiling. My question is - if you use the long grind jig, the actual angle is now not 45 deg but 50(hole 2) or 55 (hole 3) - so when you reprofile do you create the half moon at 50 or 55 rather than 45? Hope this not too confusing.
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