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Post by sulvarbir on Apr 17, 2020 14:26:20 GMT
So Sorby People,
No. 1 son lives on the IOM and he has asked me to turn a rolling pin for him. Given were he lives I thought I'd try and include a basic Celtic Knot. (really basic)
I've looked at various YT videos and people who are far more skilled than me have created some intricate designs.
The only problem is nobody seems to give measurements. For example were to start the cut on a 16" piece of 3x 3 or at what angle. I have access to a table saw and mitre saw but I don't have fancy angled sleds. My initial thoughts are to cut the timber at a 45 degree angle, insert a piece of timber, glue up and do the same process on the other side. Like I said very basic.
Does anyone have any thoughts or experience in doing something like this.
Any advice is appreciated.
Kind Regards
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Post by Pete on Apr 17, 2020 16:47:10 GMT
Stumpy is your man for that, he will even show you how to make the cutting sled. LINK> Stumpy Nubs <LINK he is cutting at 30° but as I understand it any angle will work you just get tighter circles... I did one years ago I think I did it at about 35° and I did it on the bandsaw not a table saw. |
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Post by sulvarbir on Apr 18, 2020 7:17:23 GMT
Hi Pete,
I’ve taken a look at the video. Some people raising issues over alignment but I think the sled is a good starting point. I’ve posted a comment to see if I can get it’s dimensions then I’ll try it on some scrap before laying waste to decent timber.
Chris
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Post by Pete on Apr 18, 2020 11:16:01 GMT
The dimensions will vary on many factors, your table saw guides, size of the piece of stock etc.
The sled itself can be generic and reused for other cuts. Make it as big as your saw table can comfortably handle. Remember the base plate is going to end up cut over ½ way through, so the ends of the box need to be high enough to keep stability.
I prefer to use the track to guide my sled, it is always in the right place!
Put your rolling pin stock on the sled, decide on angle somewhere between 25° and 35° steeper the angle smaller the circle!
Then put in clamping blocks so it can go back in the same place each time, if your stock is perfectly square then put blocks both sides, if not then one side and some wedge type clamp behind the cut on the other (clamping on or in front of the cut will cause binding and burning)
The most important bit of info from Stumpy is the notched clamping block, keeps alignment while gluing up.
This can be done on a band saw too, and as long as your blade tracks well through the wood possibly easier to achieve.
In fact I am going to go and make one now.... Totally your fault!
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Post by Pete on Apr 18, 2020 14:10:50 GMT
Remember this is totally your fault Chris!!! now I am going to need to figure out what to cut a Celtic Knot into! Very simple bandsaw jig, runs in 2 tracks so I cut 2 9mm x 10mm runners from a piece of surplus maple that was just there, any timber will do just as well. I have made my slide table from 9mm ply because that is what I had to hand. which means my angled fence has to be attached with 2 screws from the bottom. Still to add is a back stop, when I have my stock I will screw a backstop onto the fence to ensure that the same point passes through the blade on each turn. It is a simple jig but will get the job done, I finished it with a bit of lubricating wax on the runners and underside of the table to make it move nicely on the bandsaw. If you notice the Bandsaw insert is pristine, that is because I only made it yesterday, give it a week and it will be butchered! but actually it is worth making a new insert as well as double checking blade settings as you want these cuts as perfect as possible. Attachments:
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Post by sulvarbir on Apr 18, 2020 14:23:14 GMT
Hi Pete,
you could always make my lad a rolling pin!.
i don’t have access to a bandsaw & I’m torn (excuse the pun) between one and a thickensser.
A more pressing grump is that my two SK100 chucks don’t fit the lathe. I need to check the chat logs with Ax but I’m sure I asked whether they would fit and was told yes. ( apologies to Ax in advance if I’m wrong). I now need to acquire an M33 x 3.5 to 1" x 8tp converter. It’s either record power or Charnwood as I can’t see one on the Ax website.
i should have checked the specs.
When I go back into the garage I’ll take a photo of the sled I have on my table saw. I must be able to adapt it.
I assume that the stop blocks allow for the cuts to be made a the same point on all sides, but how do you know where it will start. For example I have 16” 3 x 3 blanks.
Chris
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Post by sulvarbir on Apr 18, 2020 15:26:00 GMT
Pete, quick mock up using existing sled that came with the table saw. The blade will not cut completely through the 3x3 because of the sled thickness. I have some thinner ply I can use & see if that will cut the full piece. I’m leaning towards a laminated piece to get a bit of excitement/colour into the rolling pin. I’m going to try a Celtic Knot with 2x2 for the practice and turn it between centres. Chris Attachments:
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Post by Pete on Apr 18, 2020 17:36:51 GMT
Dratt... just wrote a long reply and the computer crashed!
This is sort of how it went...
1 Nope I wouldn't dream of taking the joy of making your son a rolling pin away from you.
2 SK100 comes with different backplates one of which you have another fits your new lathe, talk to Axminster they may be generous seeing as you just bought the lathe and only charge you full price :-)
3 3x3 is too big for a rolling pin, make it 2x2 and I think it will fit your saw! if your blank is 16" long the centre of the cut needs to be 8" from the end and 1" from either side
4 as the knot needs to be in the middle of the rolling pin, make a 14" rolling pin allowing you 2" to adjust as required!
think that was it....
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Post by sulvarbir on Apr 20, 2020 9:39:33 GMT
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Post by Pete on Apr 20, 2020 10:05:16 GMT
It is a lump of metal fed into a CNC lathe and cut with threads, have a look at the quality, but it probably all comes from the same Chinese factory, so go with preferred supplier / price.
What is happening with your old lathe? if you are selling it then you may want to see if they want to buy the chuck, or otherwise sell the chuck and buy a new one. I did that when I upgraded, luckily sold them with the lathe and bought new on the way back from delivering it as despite loving my pair of Patriot chucks and the collection of jaws I had I really didn't want the extra distance from the headstock of using an external connector.
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Post by sulvarbir on Apr 20, 2020 10:10:02 GMT
Pete,
I was just looking on eBay at the prices of the chucks.
The old lather will be for sale on eBay etc but difficult due to self shielding my better half at present. I could sell one via courier to recoup some cost and take the plunge for an M33 chuck.
A wait and see job.
How was the sphere turning demo?
Chris
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Post by Pete on Apr 20, 2020 11:21:05 GMT
It was actually excellent, made a jam chuck that fitted on a live centre, good tip, they had silicone O rings to support the sphere, will be trying it myself as soon as I can get some silicone O rings! Lockdown is a barrier to getting things sorted especially large heavy items  . My advice is buy one adapter to get you up and running, but look at selling and replacing in the medium to long term, won't make any difference until you have a huge blank on to make a hollow form where that extra inch on the headstock just may degrade your lathe performance enough to be annoying! |
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Post by Pete on Apr 20, 2020 17:56:18 GMT
So I have my last joint glued up and drying overnight, it will not be perfect I had 2 9" pieces of dark wood so attempted to treat them as one and make what will be a 16" blank, but they were not exactly square so didn't line up perfectly on the bandsaw jig. will turn it tomorrow anyway see how it goes, but I do feel it is most definitely a practice run!
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Post by Pete on Apr 21, 2020 11:47:25 GMT
OK so I did know this yesterday but now I shall pass on the knowledge of my silly failure! So you need to subtract the kerf of your saw blade from the width of your insert, and move the end stop accordingly so that the cut lines up properly. As can be seen in the pictures, I didn't think of that until after I had made the blank! but that is why the inserts don't line up! Now I am aware of this obvious problem I will allow a bit extra time on the first glue up next time so that it is 100% dry, clean it up properly and out it back on the jig the same way, ensure the sawblade it properly aligned to cut alongside the insert before putting the end stop in place. in fact I will number all 4 sides, and check each one in turn on every cut next time.   The other thing is my grain is wrong! I really should have taken my inserts as end grain, ideally as a 30° slice, so that the 2 grains line up in the finished blank... Damn it now I have to do it all over again with proper planning of timbers rather than what in in the off cuts box... |
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Post by sulvarbir on Apr 21, 2020 12:40:44 GMT
Hi Pete
I don't think thats too shabby for a first go. One of the guys from the US calls it perfect imperfection.
I'd figured out the measuring bit but thats were my skill level ends. Its more Botchit and Scarper when it comes to maths and measuring. There were lots of comments about this on the video you pointed me to.
I've been testing doing a 30 degree cuts with the mitre saw. I take the insert at the same angle and glue up.
I then square off the two end points of the insert and cut again. This seems to remove the need to alter the stop block because of the inserts and gives me a relative degree of accuracy.
More importantly your bowl has a starring role on the Hampshire Sheen/MSS site. Excellent work.
So today with have an Ax Skew Demo and Intrinsic PastelColours this evening. Could be another non garage night.
Stay safe
Chris
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. My advice is buy one adapter to get you up and running, but look at selling and replacing in the medium to long term, won't make any difference until you have a huge blank on to make a hollow form where that extra inch on the headstock just may degrade your lathe performance enough to be annoying! 
