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Post by Brian on Dec 13, 2015 18:11:14 GMT
My bowl gouge now rotates somewhat freely within the handle.
Can you recommend a way for me to remedy this?
Many thanks
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mcb
New Member
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Post by mcb on Dec 13, 2015 23:42:27 GMT
My bowl gouge now rotates somewhat freely within the handle. Can you recommend a way for me to remedy this? Many thanks Have you tried dribbling superglue into the gap between the tang and the handle? If it's really bad, have you considered turning a new handle? |
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Post by Rob on Dec 14, 2015 13:48:41 GMT
I would definitely turn a new handle. You could re-use the ferrule from the old handle or cut a piece of 22 or 28mm plumbing pipe as an alternative depending on size. But its a nice spindle job a handle because apart from being relatively straight forward, it means that you can start buying just the steel in the future and turn all your handles. It means you save money, you turn the handle profiles which are your personal preference and it gives power to your elbow when you can make your own tools. its a really nice feeling.
The existing fault with your old one will not be cured by ca glue or even epoxy because the fundamental requirement for tool steel to stay put is a very very tight friction fit. That's clearly been lost in this case and although glue might give a short term band aid, as sure as I'm typing this, it will come loose again soon.
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Post by Rob on Dec 14, 2015 13:52:13 GMT
Incidentally, I use copper plumbing pipe for all handle ferrule work because I forgot to mention, you can actually trim it with your turning tools so it gives a very neat finish. (Its so soft). It can also be sanded through the grits just like the wood and that also gives a lovely finish and totally removes any of the oxidation/tarnish that looks so ugly. It leaves a cracking job.
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Post by Rob on Dec 14, 2015 14:06:36 GMT
In the case shown below, the handle is Olive Ash and the steel is a simple 10mm rod (long rod) which I use as a knockout bar for my somewhat long, hollow headstock. In fairness it's not that long but I haven't got round to cutting the end off yet. But see how well the copper has cleaned up with turning tools. Last tip, ensure the spindle blank is pretty dry or it'll shrink and your ferrule will pop off later. Also sneak up on the friction fit of the ferrule so its tight enough to need tapping on or again, it'll never stay there. I add a bit of ca glue before I do the final fit having checked already that's its a really nice tight fit. Any squeeze out can be dealt with after its dried with a skew.
  
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Post by Rob on Dec 14, 2015 22:57:27 GMT
This is the same tool handle before completion on the lathe  
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Post by Pete on Jan 2, 2016 10:49:39 GMT
I vote with Rob on this one, new handle is the only way forward, If your current gouge is spinning in the handle it will be easy to remove, if not then I have an engineers vice in my garage which I open slightly larger than the shaft of the gouge grab the shaft and pull it hard so the handle bumps against the vice and that normally removes the old handle very easily. WARNING be careful where you stand when doing this!
Rob, nice handle, but from the looks of the floor I think you started with too big a blank :-)
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Post by Rob on Jan 2, 2016 20:54:42 GMT
What do you mean Pete....that Ash tree was only about 60 foot or so when it went on the lathe :-)
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mcb
New Member
Posts: 47
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Post by mcb on Jan 2, 2016 23:52:23 GMT
In the case shown below, the handle is Olive Ash and the steel is a simple 10mm rod (long rod) which I use as a knockout bar for my somewhat long, hollow headstock.
I think I would be very cautious about using a steel rod to knock things out of a Morse Taper. My knock out bars are BRASS which is soft than steel, so any deformation will, hopefully, occur on the brass rather than the headstock or thing in it. MC |
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Post by Pete on Jan 3, 2016 1:04:51 GMT
I use a pound shop large philips screwdriver with the end ground off, never have to use much force, I did consider putting a brass tip on it but it's seldom more than a light push to remove the steb centre or live centre so have never bothered. All the new lathes at the school I trained at came with steel knockout bars. But if you happen to have a suitable length of 1/4" brass rod then all to the good really still be needing a handle though! Incidentally mine is a 2MT I may be more fussy if it was a 1MT which I find get wedged tighter. Knew I had previously uploaded a picture of one of my home made handles, just found it, My handle shapes are unashamedly ripped off from Sorby tools, they are the tools I buy from choice so I am used to the weight / size of the handles, this one has re-used a brass feral but like Rob most of the ones I make are copper as it is more available (B&Q plumbing joints, or length of pipe if you are going to make lots of handles).  This one is a home made scraper so it's a square shank, and I knocked off the corners of the bit in the handle, it's a good idea to take apart your gouge before making the new handle get the size of the part that is going into the handle which is usually the same as the visible bit, make the hole it is going into VERY tight even half a mm too small and use water as a lube to help you fit the handle this will dry out leaving it all nice and tight, I never use any form of glue, not even on the feral. |
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Post by binymin2 on Nov 30, 2016 16:50:44 GMT
My bowl gouge now rotates somewhat freely within the handle. Can you recommend a way for me to remedy this? Many thanks |
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