|
Post by edbanger on May 28, 2014 22:38:38 GMT
could anyone tell me why there's a standard grind and a fingernail grind?
Thanks
Ed
|
|
|
Post by Pete on May 29, 2014 2:36:00 GMT
Different grinds suit different turners, Sorby are quite fond of the Fingernail grind so offer it as an option along with standard. Personally I like the Fingernail grind, I think it suits the Sorby bowl gouge very well, also it was around when I started learning and I am used to it, other turners prefer other styles e.g. Irish grind (long fingernail)
My Spindle gouges are not all fingernail profile, some of the more delicate spindle work I personally find a standard grind works better for me.
|
|
|
Post by edbanger on May 29, 2014 5:43:34 GMT
Hi Pete
I understand the preference bit I have two Sorby 3/8 bowl gouges one is standard and the other I've profiled to a long grind and I think that I use the long grind for most of my work. I was wondering what the technical theory was behind it or if it was just a sales thing because some customers prefer one or the other.
Ed
|
|
|
Post by jimcarroll on May 29, 2014 9:08:13 GMT
The standard U shaped grind has been around since moses was a boy
It was the irish that developed the swept back style of grind.
It also come with a few other names, celtic, fingernail irish and then there is the Elsworth grind which has longer wings.
The standard grind is used for everyday bowl turning, the swept back grind allows for a longer sweet spot so easier to use in some applications. It is also used for shear scraping on the outside of a bowl
the fingernail grind must be shaped properly for it to work properly, where the standard grind is easier to shape.
|
|
|
Post by Rob on May 29, 2014 9:17:57 GMT
The fingernail grind also allows the hogging off of much greater quantities of material than standard due to the extra cutting edges of the wings. Also its bevel angle is typically shallower than a standard grind making it less effective in tighter radiused bowl interiors. However, in those situations I either switch to a round nose scraper, sorby scraper tip or I also have a standard grind bowl gouge to sweep round the transition from wall to bottom of bowl. Once you're used to it the fingernail ground bowl gouge is pretty much the most versatile tool in the bag. Its my go to tool in countless situations and my personal preference is a 3/8. I've got a 1/2" but find it a little cumbersome and heavy.
The Pro edge fingernail grind is a perfectly acceptable compromise between standard and Ellsworth. Simple to use and so repeatable because there is zero setup to do since the settings are baked into the tooling. Lovely design. So simple and yet like many good things, simple is best.
|
|
|
Post by dalboy on May 29, 2014 15:15:13 GMT
Standard grind I find useful for deeper bowls with tighter curves at the bottom
|
|
|
Post by jimcarroll on May 30, 2014 9:24:44 GMT
To help with the deeper bowls you can do what Jimmy Clewes does and create a micro bevel
Basically grind the gouge as you normally do then move the tool futher out the jig so you are grinding away the lower part of the gouge till you are left with about 2mm of the original bevel.
This allows you to still hold the tool on the bevel but more controlable in deeper bowls and eliminate the need for scrapers
|
|
|
Post by Rob on May 30, 2014 10:30:26 GMT
yup...grind the heel off. Actually the articulated gouge jig has a little extension bar for doing just that. You grind as normal, undo the lock knob and extend the protrusion, lock the knob and grind. It makes heel removal dead easy without having to reset all the protrusion settings.
|
|
|
Post by Jeff Farris on May 30, 2014 13:30:57 GMT
I will just interject at this point that grinding away the heel of the bevel is an advanced technique, quite useful for the experienced, but potentially frustrating for the beginner. If you struggle to feel the correct presentation of the tool with a large bevel, you'll struggle even more if you cut that in half.
Like a lot of techniques that get written and talked about, know why you're doing it, before you do it.
|
|
|
Post by 19mainst on Jan 2, 2016 9:44:34 GMT
I just wish someone would post videos on you tube of these differentgrinds and how to do them. I am surprised Sorby have not already done this (or have they)
|
|
|
Post by Pete on Jan 2, 2016 10:34:40 GMT
I just wish someone would post videos on you tube of these differentgrinds and how to do them. I am surprised Sorby have not already done this (or have they) It depends on your sharpening system, I use the Tormec, so the video is Tormec link. For the Sorby System then watch Sorby link, if you use something else then search YouTube for fingernail profile and the name of your system.
|
|
mikeb
New Member
Posts: 2
|
Post by mikeb on May 3, 2017 1:58:04 GMT
Hi, I have been given a thin fluted parting tool as a present, could you please advise which way is up. (flute down or flute up?)
|
|
|
Post by Pete on May 3, 2017 8:19:39 GMT
Flute down works for me, key benefit is that the parting point is cleaner than with a standard parting tool, but I have found that it also makes some nice micro beads which I sometimes use to pattern up the dovetail chuck mount center, obviously for this use I use it flute upwards.
|
|
mikeb
New Member
Posts: 2
|
Post by mikeb on May 3, 2017 10:29:08 GMT
Thanks Pete.
regards Mike
|
|
chico
New Member
Posts: 8
|
Post by chico on Nov 11, 2017 23:59:55 GMT
What I would like to know is almost a ready reckoner for gouge projection length versus angle. Obviouisly 2" projection comes out to 45 degrees but I'd like to save all the metal without having to resort to trial and error.
|
|