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Post by Clive Brooks on May 23, 2014 7:24:15 GMT
Good morning Tom
I am so pleased that you are now getting confident with the TurnMaster and picked up the technique quickly after following Jeffs great advice.
Robert Sorby always want our customers to enjoy their turning by getting the most from their tools.
We are always here to help as best we can.
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Post by moberdan on May 23, 2014 13:03:54 GMT
Yes did sheer scrape. I have a Myford Mystro digital speed lathe and I turned at the highest speed on pulley No. 1.
Worth noting as you said, a high speed is good low speed is catching.
Tom.
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Post by Pete on May 24, 2014 16:24:32 GMT
Yes did sheer scrape. I have a Myford Mystro digital speed lathe and I turned at the highest speed on pulley No. 1. Worth noting as you said, a high speed is good low speed is catching. Tom. One of the first lessons I had rounding off a square before beading and coving, the instructor said "never be afraid of speed, the faster it turns the less time there is to put the gouge in the wrong place" never forgotten that and use it's converse when turning large lumps into balance, i.e. the slower it is the more time there is to**** it up!
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frank
New Member
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Post by frank on Jun 14, 2014 9:46:19 GMT
Hi moberdan,
Glad you are getting to grips with your Turnmaster. Have you considered joining a woodturning club? As a club member you will have access to much shared experience of using various types of tool. I don't know which part of the the country you live in but if you are near to Mirfield I can recommend the Birstall Woodturning Club which is open 5days a week and has 17 lathes plus various other machines and tools.
Regards, Frank.
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jritz
New Member
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Post by jritz on Jan 12, 2015 18:05:05 GMT
Jeff,
I am also struggling mightily with this tool, but my project is a segmented bowl. The feature ring has end grain hitting the cutter with awful consequences. Any advice here.
Thanks, Joe
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Post by Jeff Farris on Jan 14, 2015 12:22:59 GMT
Joe,
You'r situation is custom tailored to the shear scraping approach.
As mentioned further up in the thread, speed is your friend. Work as fast as you are comfortable. Lap the top surface of the cutter on a fine stone...even if it is brand new. Index the cutter to 45 degrees and take very light cuts. If it were me, and I were working on the outside of the piece, I would use a square cutter. If you find the square cutter tricky, a round one will work, as well.
One thing I will mention here after having worked with several customers over the last few weeks. The tool presentation should be level or at a slight down angle. Never--repeat--never, at an upward angle. I have people approach the stock with the tool aimed like a gouge, and that is an invitation to failure. Level or down, never up.
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Post by Jeff S on Sept 26, 2015 12:12:11 GMT
Hello, I recently purchased a Turnmaster and I have some questions that do not seem well addressed in either the literature or the videos. I've spent a fair amount buying cutters, heads and the tool and have had quite a few problems. I'm working on a segmented bowl and it is in a Cole Jaw. As the cutter (round) is leveling the bottom, it's caught the material three times now, throwing it out of the jaws. The last time, I got hit in the face. Here are my questions:
The cutters have an angle on them, I believe 80 degrees. In the flat position should the cutting edge be on top or on bottom?
Clearly the angle approach is important to using the tool,mint seems like there is only one angle that will work, otherwise there is no material removed...but as you move the tool, the angle changes so it is only effective within a very short arc of use. Has anyone found a better way?
The turnmaster has a hole in the primary tool and there is a bar that some with it that can go into that hole. Any idea what it's for? There's nothing in the instructions or videos that mentions it.
Thanks in advance for the help!
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Post by Jeff s on Sept 26, 2015 12:49:31 GMT
I meant to say the there is a hole in the body of the tool and a bar included that can slip into the hole, but I have no idea what it's for...any thoughts?
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Post by Clive Brooks on Sept 28, 2015 11:29:22 GMT
Hi Jeff s
The bar fits neatly into the hole in the bar as you correctly observe.
This is used as a small 'Tommy bar' to assist in tightening the head when used in conjunction with the locking spanner / wrench provided.
This is not necessary for everyday use as hand tighten is sufficient but some customers may feel that they are unable to tighten the head as much as they would like just by hand so the option is there.
I hope this clears up your question.
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Post by ausjohn on Mar 15, 2016 6:31:29 GMT
What speed do you recommend for starting a spindle with the Turnmaster square cutter. Does the speed alter if I switch to a round or diamond cutter?
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Post by Pete on Mar 15, 2016 13:53:22 GMT
Hi ausjohn
That is hard to put a number on, it depends on the size, balance, flex of your stock and what lathe you have too... so it is very much a question of 'as fast as feels right'. You certainly want the gaps where your bevel is off the wood to be so short you don't move the turnmaster between corners. i.e. you want to cut a complete diameter before moving up the toolrest...
The problem is it really depends on the stock, if you are working with a nice piece of lime it cuts easily and you can do that with the Turnmaster perfectly, but if it's an old piece of Oak with knots, or worse monkey puzzle which is soft as butter then hard as oak on each of the knots, you need a heavy tool to smooth out the cut, otherwise you are gripping over-tight, which not only makes turning hard work, it will make all you your passes rigid and tear up the stock.
Changing the cutter to round or diamond depending on what you are cutting makes speed more important as you have a smaller contact area so a bigger risk of moving down the toolrest too quickly, leaving a ridge behind the tool, which could be a catch or tear out on the next pass.
HELP ME Jeff, Rob, Anyone, I know what I mean but can't put it into words...
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mick p in australia
Guest
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Post by mick p in australia on Apr 17, 2022 23:32:35 GMT
it is just a very bad design to try and make a lot of money just another varied tool to make money. thats why they makes this rubbish
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Post by Pete on Apr 18, 2022 9:12:14 GMT
it is just a very bad design to try and make a lot of money just another varied tool to make money. thats why they makes this rubbish Still works very well for those that know how to use it. Been around for a long time now and other tools have evolved from it which may or may not be better, I would like to try some of the top end carbides but not interested enough to pay the price.
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Post by Aad on Jun 5, 2022 12:26:49 GMT
And what speed do you all use? I usually set it around 1500 rpm
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Post by Pete on Jun 5, 2022 15:49:33 GMT
The speed depends on the timber, but yes about that often
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